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engine cooling for Renault 2CV6

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Fan blade for 2CV6, 9 blades (Or. No. 5433422 or AM241904), Mounted with 6 screws. Outer diameter

265 mm. Inner diameter: approx. 175 mm. Bolt circle: approx. 160 mm. Unfortunately, the quality of this fan blade is not particularly good. Slightly thicker screws may sometimes be required for fitting. The advantage of these fan blades is that they are readily available (the good-quality reproductions are not always in stock) and very low-priced. And once fitted, they work just as well.

Fan blade for 2CV6, 9 vanes, color black. Original supplier. Securement with 6 screws. Outside

diameter 265mm. Diameter inside: 177mm. Pitch diameter: 162mm.

Belt pulley (without fan blade + V-belt), better than original (Made by Franzose). Suitable for

Citroen 2CV6, Dyane, Mehari. The belt pulley has been rotated from a 18kg steel block DIN 1,0501 (AISI/SAE 1040, EN C35). Fine balanced pulley, thus avoiding much pressure on the crankshaft. No risk of tearing off as it is not welded. Belt pulley is yellow galvanised (like original). Made by Franzose/Cipere, entire production process in Europe.

Hose clamp 11-17mm, especially for radiator hose. Vintage look. Embossed band with raised edges

This prevents the hose from being damaged. Small screw housing with 7mm hexagon head screw (with slot). Normal, modern hose clamps squeeze the hose. This is completely avoided with these clamps. And they even look better.

Hose clamp 13-20mm, especially for radiator hose. Vintage look. Embossed band with raised edges

This prevents the hose from being damaged. Small screw housing with 7mm hexagon head screw (with slot). Normal, modern hose clamps squeeze the hose. This is completely avoided with these clamps. And they even look better.

Hose clamp 15-24mm, especially for radiator hose. Vintage look. Embossed band with raised edges

This prevents the hose from being damaged. Small screw housing with 7mm hexagon head screw (with slot). Normal, modern hose clamps squeeze the hose. This is completely avoided with these clamps. And they even look better.

Hose clamp 19-28mm, especially for radiator hose. Vintage look. Embossed band with raised edges

This prevents the hose from being damaged. Small screw housing with 7mm hexagon head screw (with slot). Normal, modern hose clamps squeeze the hose. This is completely avoided with these clamps. And they even look better.

Hose clamp 22-32mm, especially for radiator hose. Vintage look. Embossed band with raised edges

This prevents the hose from being damaged. Small screw housing with 7mm hexagon head screw (with slot). Normal, modern hose clamps squeeze the hose. This is completely avoided with these clamps. And they even look better.

Hose clamp Screwdriver hexagon (7mm). Flexible. Ideal for our hose clamps with raised edges.

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Citroën 2CV6 Cooling System: Air Cooling, Oil Cooler, and Airflow

The Citroën 2CV6 does not have a radiator. The 602-cc two-cylinder boxer engine is an air-cooled engine in which the engine oil also plays a significant role in heat dissipation. For this reason, you do not check the coolant level on the 2CV6. It is crucial that the airflow is directed completely and precisely through the engine and that the oil cooler remains clean and unobstructed.

The most important components of the cooling system are the fan impeller, fan blades, fan housing, cooling air baffles, air ducts, and oil cooler. If a part is missing, an air duct is misaligned, or the oil cooler is clogged, the engine can overheat despite appearing to run normally.

Why air flow is so important in the Citroën 2CV6

The fan blade is mounted at the front of the engine and directs the cooling air through the fan housing specifically over the oil cooler, cylinders, and cylinder heads. The metal panels on the engine are not a minor detail, but an important part of the cooling system. They ensure that the air does not escape anywhere, but reaches the areas where heat needs to be dissipated.

The warm air is then either directed through the heat exchangers via a hose into the inner fender and flows out, or it is used for the heater if desired.

A common issue after engine work is that small air baffles, gaskets, or air ducts are missing or not installed correctly. The engine will then start normally and run smoothly while stationary, but can overheat during longer drives, under heavy load, in summer heat, or on inclines. Likewise, warm air may not reach the passenger compartment.

The oil cooler on the 2CV6

The oil cooler is located in the airflow and is particularly important for the 602-cc engine. It can become clogged with oil mist, dust, insects, leaves, and old dirt. Especially in engines with oil leaks, an insulating layer of dirt often forms: oil binds dust, and airflow through the fins is reduced.

During maintenance, the oil cooler should therefore not only be checked for leaks but also cleaned from the outside. Work carefully to avoid bending the delicate fins. A brush, compressed air used from a distance, and a suitable cleaner are recommended. After cleaning, check for oil leaks and ensure that the connections and lines are in good condition.

We have documented this very well in a video about changing the oil on the 2CV6.

The fan wheel and fan blade

The fan wheel is a vital engine component on the 2CV6. It must not be damaged, loose, or incorrectly installed. After working on the alternator, V-belt, ignition, or front engine housing, you should always check:

  • Is the fan wheel seated correctly on the cone?
  • Is the fastening properly tightened?
  • Is the fan wheel rubbing against the housing?
  • Are any blades broken or bent?
  • Is the fan housing fully assembled?

A damaged or loose fan impeller can significantly reduce cooling performance and, in the worst case, cause consequential damage to the engine.

Cooling air intake and grille

Even the best fan is of little help if not enough air is entering the engine compartment from the front. Therefore, the cooling air intake must remain unobstructed. Auxiliary headlights, improperly mounted license plate holders, decorative decals, luggage, or winter covers can impede airflow.

A winter cover is only useful in cold weather, such as below 10 °C. In milder temperatures, it must be removed.

Oil Level and Oil Quality

On the air-cooled 2CV6, the oil level is particularly important. Too little oil not only means poorer lubrication but also poorer heat dissipation. The oil level should always be checked before long drives, highway trips, vacation trips, or mountain routes.

Old or heavily contaminated oil is also undesirable. Oil changes should therefore not be unnecessarily delayed. A clean oil circuit and a clear oil cooler are more important for the engine’s longevity than many aftermarket solutions.

Typical weak points of the 2CV6 cooling system

  • Contaminated oil cooler: From the outside, this is often only properly visible once the fan wheel and fan housing have been removed.
  • Missing or incorrectly installed cooling air baffles: A thorough inspection is particularly worthwhile after engine overhauls, clutch work, or partial restorations.
  • Leaky air ducts on the fan housing: Cracks, poorly fitting housing parts, or bent sheet metal allow cooling air to escape before it reaches the cylinders, heads, and oil cooler.
  • Mouse nests, leaves, and foreign objects: Nests on the cylinders or near the oil cooler act as thermal insulation and can lead to severe overheating.

Not all overheating is caused by the cooling system

If a 2CV6 overheats despite a clean oil cooler and unobstructed airflow, the ignition, carburetor, air leaks, and valve clearance must also be checked. Incorrect ignition timing, a too-lean mixture, secondary air, or improperly adjusted valves can increase the combustion temperature.

Sustained high RPM in hot weather, headwinds, uphill driving, or when fully loaded also generates a lot of heat. The 2CV6 is robust, but it is not a water-cooled long-distance engine with a large coolant reservoir. Its cooling system only works reliably if the airflow, oil cooler, and engine settings are correct. If good oil is used, the oil cooler is unobstructed, the airflow is correct, the ignition is properly adjusted, and the carburetor is not set too lean, even long summer trips over 1,000 km are possible without any problems.

How can you tell if there are cooling problems?

Possible signs include a drop in power when the engine is warm, ringing or knocking under load, an unusually hot oil smell, very thin oil after driving, hot-start problems, oil leaks, or noticeable discoloration on engine parts.

An oil temperature gauge is not strictly necessary on the standard 2CV6, but can be helpful for frequent highway driving, summer operation, mountain routes, or trips with heavy loads. Oil temperatures of 120 to 140 °C can certainly occur on long trips.

Practical checklist for the 2CV6 cooling system

  • Check the oil level before long trips.
  • Keep the cooling air intake clear.
  • Remove any winter cover that may have been installed in a timely manner.
  • During maintenance, inspect the oil cooler, fan blade, fan housing, cooling air baffles, and air ducts.
  • If you experience overheating issues, also check the ignition, carburetor, air leaks, valve clearance, and oil condition.

The most important rule is: On the 2CV6, cooling is only as good as the airflow. A clean oil cooler and complete, airtight cooling air baffles are more important than aftermarket solutions.

Citroën 2CV6 Fan Blade and Fan/V-belt Pulley

On the Citroën 2CV6, the plastic fan blade sits on top of the fan or V-belt pulley. This unit is mounted conically on the crankshaft.

Important: It is not the fan blade that holds the pulley on the crankshaft, but the tapered seat. The central screw simply pulls the unit onto the taper and ensures that it sits securely there.

Tools Required

The following tools are required for disassembly:

  • 14-mm socket, thin-walled, or a suitable wrench for the central fan bolt
  • Wide flat-blade screwdriver to hold the flywheel in place
  • Ratchet and extension, 1/2 inch
  • Small hammer or plastic/soft-face hammer
  • If necessary, a special puller for the 2CV fan wheel (not actually necessary)
  • Brake cleaner and fine sanding cloth
  • Torque wrench for reassembly

The central fan bolt on the 602-cc engine is an M10 bolt with a 14-mm wrench size.

Step-by-step disassembly

1. Disconnect the battery

First, disconnect the battery. Work will be performed directly on the fan and near the starter and crankshaft. Accidental engine rotation can be dangerous.

2. Clear the fan grille and front access

Unscrew the front fan grille (4x M7 screws). On the 2CV6, the work can be done from the front through the fan opening.

Make sure that no screws, washers, or small parts fall into the fan housing.

3. Loosen or remove the V-belt

If you are only working on the ignition, the V-belt can remain installed in some cases. However, it is cleaner to detach the alternator, loosen the V-belt, and remove it. This is easier if you remove the small metal cover on the alternator on the engine fan housing (3x M5 nuts)

4. Loosen the center screw

Loosen the central screw in the middle of the fan. The engine may rotate slightly as you do this. To hold it in place, a helper can block the engine by engaging a gear and applying the brake. If you are working alone, block the flywheel via the starter ring gear using a wide screwdriver.

Important: Never hold the plastic fan blades. The fan blades can break or develop fine hairline cracks.

5. Remove the screw and washer

Remove the center screw along with the corresponding washer or spring washer.

Even after removing the screw, the fan/pulley assembly is often still very tight. This is normal, as it is clamped onto the crankshaft cone.

6. Loosen the fan/pulley from the taper

The crucial step is to loosen the unit from the taper.

After removing the center screw, insert a 1/2-inch ratchet extension or a suitable tool back into the center of the pulley. Then, apply short, controlled taps with a hammer to the side of the extension. While doing this, the fan should be rotated slightly further each time so that the impacts come from multiple sides. This will gradually loosen the tapered seat until the unit audibly or noticeably clicks.

7. Pull the fan blade pulley straight off

Once the cone is loosened, pull the fan/pulley unit straight forward. Avoid tilting it.

If the unit moves only a few millimeters and then gets stuck, do not pull on the fan blades with force. Loosen the pulley again using the ratchet extension.

What to pay special attention to

The most common mistake is prying with screwdrivers behind the fan. This can damage the pulley, fan housing, or plastic fan. Striking the fan blades directly must also be avoided at all costs.

Likewise, do not strike the crankshaft axially with excessive force. Short, controlled taps are different from hard hammer blows. Excessive force can stress the crankshaft bearings, engine housing, or the tapered seat.

Check and clean the tapered seat

The taper on the crankshaft and the taper in the pulley must be clean, smooth, and free of grease. Rust, burrs, scratches, or old residue can cause the pulley to run out of round later or make it difficult to remove the next time.

Clean the cone carefully using fine abrasive cloth. The cone must not be sanded down or altered in shape.

Check the fan blades

Carefully inspect the plastic fan for damage. Of particular importance are:

  • Cracks in the hub
  • Broken mounting areas
  • Damaged or bent fan blades
  • Visible hairline cracks in the plastic

A damaged fan should be replaced. A breaking fan can damage the fan housing, the cooling air duct, and other components. It may be a good idea to carry a spare part when on the road.

Check the pulley for concentricity

Also check the pulley. If it has been pried with tire levers or screwdrivers in the past, it may be warped.

A pulley that runs out of round often leads to V-belt wear, noise, vibrations, and reduced alternator performance. It also increases the risk of material fatigue and breakage.

Assembly

Before installation, the following points should be noted:

  1. Thoroughly clean the crankshaft taper.
  2. Clean the pulley cone.
  3. Secure the fan blades correctly to the pulley.
  4. Place the unit straight onto the crankshaft and do not forget the V-belt.
  5. Install the center bolt with the correct washer.
  6. Tighten the screw and tension the V-belt.
  7. After starting, check that the pulley is running true.
  8. Reinstall the fan grille.

For the small screws used to secure the fan blade to the pulley, a guideline value of approximately 10 Nm applies.

Important: This value applies to securing the fan blade to the pulley. To tighten the central M10 screw, the flywheel should be locked in place again.

Practical recommendation

If the fan has not been removed for a long time, do not use excessive force for an extended period. Calm, careful work is more important here than brute force.

The cone can be very tight. Damage caused by improper prying or hard blows is usually much more costly than using the right tool.

After reassembly, the motor should be run briefly. Observe from the front to ensure the fan runs smoothly. The V-belt must not slip, and there must be no rubbing against the fan housing.

Afterward, the V-belt tension should be checked again.