2CV, 602ccm, engine gasket set without shaft seals. Installed from year of construction 1961 to
1969. Suitable for Citroen 3CV, Dyane, Ami6. Engine M4.
engine gasket sets for Citroën 2CV 2CV6
5 Articles
2CV6, 602cc, engine gasket set including oil seals and valve stem seals. Suitable for Citroën 2CV6
models with M28 engines manufactured during the years of construction 1970 to 1990. Original equipment quality!
2CV6, 602cc. Engine gasket set without oil seals. For Citroën 2CV6 with M28 engine (up to the end
of production) and 2CV4 with 435cc AYA2 engine. Original equipment quality!
5 Articles
2CV6 from 1970 onward, 602 cc: the right engine gasket set
Basic gasket set or complete gasket set?
For the 2CV6, there are two options: a basic engine gasket set and a complete engine gasket set.
The basic set typically includes the standard paper and rubber engine gaskets, but does not include crankshaft oil seals.
However, both engine gasket sets we offer also include the valve stem seals.
The complete set additionally includes the two crankshaft oil seals at the front and rear.
| Position | Dimension | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| Crankshaft front | 30 × 42 × 8 mm | Nitrile, double-lip |
| Rear crankshaft / flywheel side | 56 × 69 × 10 mm | Nitrile, double lip |
Important feature: The 2CV6 does not have a traditional cylinder head gasket
The air-cooled 2CV boxer engine does not have a cylinder head gasket as found in water-cooled engines.
Many supposed “cylinder head gasket problems” in the 2CV6 are actually leaks in other areas:
| Area | Typical issue |
|---|---|
| Tappet tube gasket / “joints lunettes” of the tappet tubes | Oil runs down below the cylinders |
| Valve cover gaskets | Oil mist or drops on the cylinder heads |
| Rear crankshaft oil seal | Oil between the engine and transmission / in the clutch bell housing |
| Front crankshaft oil seal | Oil behind the fan / pulley |
| Oil cooler and oil line gaskets | Oil in the oil cooler area / at the front of the cylinder heads |
| Oil pump / engine block area | Oil on the lower engine block |
| Oil filler neck - Crankcase ventilation / Reniflard | Excess pressure causes new oil leaks |
Especially with the 2CV6, a leaky engine does not automatically mean that the engine was poorly sealed. Very often, the crankcase breather—that is, the oil filler neck or reniflard—is defective.
What should you look for when buying a 2CV6 engine gasket set?
For a standard 2CV6, you should check the following:
1. Suitable for 602 cm³ models from 1970 onward
The kit should be explicitly suitable for the 2CV6 / 602 cm³ / M28 / A06 from 1970 onward. These are our part numbers 10020 + 10137.
2. With or without crankshaft oil seals?
If the engine is removed or the flywheel or ventilation side is being disassembled anyway, you should use the complete set with both oil seals.
Otherwise, you’ll later be missing the very part that takes the most work to replace.
3. Are valve stem seals included?
Yes, the valve stem seals are included in both of our engine gasket sets. However, there are many engine gasket sets on the market that do not always include them.
4. Quality of the pushrod seals
The pushrod seals are among the most critical seals in the 2CV engine.
An original installation note used to recommend unpacking and installing these gaskets only immediately before installation to ensure optimal rubber quality during installation. However, this note dates from a time when many other plasticizers were still used in the rubber gaskets.
Today, these materials are no longer permitted in this form within the EU. As a result, modern pushrod gaskets are often not as pliable as earlier original parts.
What this means for you: Pay even closer attention to whether the oil filler neck or reniflard is in good condition. If the engine builds up excess pressure, even new gaskets will quickly start leaking again.
Alternatively, improved pushrod gaskets made from modern materials can be used, such as those based on Viton. These are better able to withstand oil vapors, heat, and modern fuel and oil chemistry.
5. Do not “replace” every old paper gasket with sealant
The 2CV engine cannot tolerate excessive silicone or sealant. Excess sealant can damage internal oil passages or the oil strainer.
It is also important to note: The 2CV engine is manufactured with such precision that no gasket was used between the engine block halves at the factory. The block halves were assembled dry. After disassembly, however, a very thin layer of a suitable engine sealant can be applied today.
As already mentioned, the 2CV engine does not have a traditional cylinder head gasket. It also lacks a cylinder base gasket.
It is fair to say that this small engine has been manufactured with remarkable precision since 1948. Many other manufacturers—whether the VW Beetle, Porsche, British sports cars, Mercedes, Alfa Romeo, or BMW—used gaskets in comparable locations. The little 2CV managed with particularly precisely machined sealing surfaces.
Added to this is the camshaft with two offset drive gears to prevent flank play. The result is very precise valve timing. That is why the 2CV6 engine can withstand long stretches of full throttle over many hundreds of kilometers without suffering any damage.
An interesting side note: camshafts with offset gears were also known as a typical tuning accessory for V2 Moto Guzzi engines.
Instructions for replacing the gaskets on the 2CV6
A) Before disassembly
Clean the engine thoroughly. Afterward, you should take a short test drive or run the engine at idle to pinpoint the exact location of the leak.
On the 2CV, oil is often blown far back by the airflow. Therefore, before replacing any gaskets, check the following:
- Crankcase breather / Oil filler neck / Reniflard
- Oil level, not above maximum
- Valve cover: warped or overtightened?
- Is the valve cover gasket installed correctly?
- Tappet tube gaskets: hardened or installed incorrectly?
- Oil filter and oil cooler area
- Oil lines from the engine block to the cylinder heads
- Flywheel side / rear oil seal
- Engine oil: Is the correct oil used, 20W-50 classic car oil?
- Was modern, overly thin oil used?
A new oil seal is of little help if the engine builds up excess pressure due to a defective oil filler neck or reniflard.
B) Tappet tube gaskets
The pushrod seals are among the most common sources of oil leaks on the 2CV6.
Important:
- Check the pushrod tubes for roundness.
- The tube ends must not have any burrs or sharp edges.
- The seals must not be installed under tension.
- The sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and engine block must be absolutely clean.
- The pushrod tube gasket must be installed the correct way up.
- Are the metal caps or metal pans that secure the pushrod tube gaskets in good condition?
When installing the cylinder heads, do not force the tappet tube gaskets. The gasket must sit flush. If it is pinched during tightening, it will often leak again immediately.
C) Cylinder Head Installation and Tightening
The cylinder head bolts are tightened in the following order:
- bottom
- top front
- top rear
The first tightening is done at 1 daNm, the second at 2.5 daNm.
The values are given in daNm or mkg. For Nm, you can multiply by approximately 10.
| Step | Value |
|---|---|
| 1st pass | approx. 10 Nm |
| 2nd pass | approx. 25 Nm |
Caution: This is very low. Be sure to use a suitable torque wrench.
Next, adjust the valve clearance while the engine is cold:
| Valve | Clearance (cold) |
|---|---|
| Intake | 0.20 mm |
| Exhaust | 0.20 mm |
Some experts also set the intake to 0.15 mm. However, based on practical experience, it is recommended to set both the intake and exhaust to 0.20 mm when the engine is cold.
Valve clearance that is too tight can impair cylinder filling, reduce compression, and, in the worst case, lead to burnt valves. Slightly increased valve clearance, on the other hand, usually causes only a slight rattling but does not immediately result in engine damage.
Our tip: Set the intake and exhaust valves to 0.20 mm when the engine is cold (which is also the factory specification).
D) Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve covers are very often tightened too much. According to the 2CV torque chart, the tightening torque is 0.5 to 0.7 daNm, or about 5 to 7 Nm.
Important:
- Check the sealing surface on the cover for flatness.
- Completely remove any old cork or rubber residue.
- Place the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover with a little grease. This prevents it from slipping when you install the valve cover.
- We also offer improved valve cover gaskets that fold over the edge of the valve cover. This prevents slipping.
- Do not force the gasket into place.
- For old valve covers, check whether they have been deformed inward at the screw points due to being tightened too tightly.
Practical tip: First, hand-tighten the valve cover nut. Then place a 12 mm ring wrench on it and tighten the nut using only your middle finger at the end of the ring wrench. This is usually sufficient.
E) Front crankshaft oil seal
Front oil seal: 30 × 42 × 8 mm
Procedure:
- Remove the fan wheel and front attachments.
- Carefully pull out the old oil seal without scratching the seating surface in the engine housing.
- To do this, small sheet metal screws can be screwed into the old oil seal. The seal can then be pulled out with pliers.
- Inspect the crankshaft surface: Are there any worn grooves, rust, or burrs?
- Lightly coat the new oil seal with clean engine oil or assembly grease.
- The sealing lip faces the oil side, i.e., toward the inside of the engine.
- Drive the oil seal in perfectly straight; do not let it tilt.
- A suitable socket or a suitable driving tool with the appropriate diameter is helpful.
- If the shaft has a groove, the new shaft seal can be seated slightly deeper, provided the seat allows it.
F) Rear crankshaft oil seal / flywheel side
Rear oil seal: 56 × 69 × 10 mm
Special care is required here:
- Disconnect the engine from the transmission or remove the engine.
- Remove the clutch and flywheel.
- Mark the flywheel position.
- Inspect and clean the bolts and contact surfaces.
- Clean the oil seal seat, but do not scratch it.
- The sealing lip faces the engine oil side.
- When sliding it over the crankshaft, the lip must not fold over.
- A suitable socket or an appropriate installation tool with the correct diameter is helpful.
- Install the flywheel clean and free of grease.
- Be sure to use new flywheel bolts, as these are expansion bolts that may only be used once.
Torque values:
| Component | Value |
|---|---|
| Flywheel bolts | 3.8 daNm, i.e., approx. 38 Nm |
| Clutch mounting | 1 to 1.3 daNm, i.e., approx. 10 to 13 Nm |
On the flywheel side, you should also always check:
- Is the clutch oily?
- Are the pilot and guide parts dry and free of play?
- Is the crankshaft running surface worn in?
- Is the oil really coming from the oil seal or from the engine block?
G) Oil pump, oil strainer, oil cooler, and oil connections
Cleanliness is crucial when working on the front engine area and the paper gaskets.
| Component | Value |
|---|---|
| Oil strainer | 0.3–0.5 daNm |
| Oil pump | 1.3–1.5 daNm |
| Oil cooler mounting | 1.9 daNm |
| Oil pressure switch | 3 daNm |
| Oil drain plug | 3.5–4.5 daNm |
Common mistakes when changing seals on the 2CV6
The most common beginner mistakes are:
| Mistake | Consequence |
|---|---|
| Wrong 602-cc gasket set purchased | Shaft seals or valve stem seals are missing |
| Tappet tube gaskets installed upside down | Oil leak immediately after starting |
| Tappet tubes are out of round or have burrs | New gasket is damaged, oil leak |
| Valve cover tightened too tightly | Gasket is pushed out, oil leak |
| Oil seal installed dry | Sealing lip burns or wears down, oil leak |
| Oil seal installed at an angle | Immediate leakage |
| Crankshaft running surface not checked | New ring does not seal properly on old groove |
| Too much silicone or sealant used | Oil passages or oil strainer may be compromised; engine damage can occur quickly |
| Oil filler neck / breather not checked | Engine leaks oil despite new gaskets |
Our recommendation for the 2CV6 engine gasket set
For a standard 2CV6 from 1970 onward, we do not recommend a minimal engine gasket set, but rather a complete engine gasket set:
- specifically designed for the 2CV6 / 602 cm³ / M28 from 1970 onward
- with front crankshaft oil seal 30 × 42 × 8 mm
- with rear crankshaft oil seal 56 × 69 × 10 mm
- with valve stem seals
- with high-quality head gaskets
By the way: You can also purchase all engine gaskets individually from us. This allows you to put together your own engine gasket set, including improved tappet tube gaskets.
All of our engine gasket sets for the 2CV are supplied by the original equipment manufacturer and brand supplier Glaser Spain. Glaser has been supplying engine gasket sets for Citroën since the 2CV was in production.
And very important before installation: First check the oil filler neck, or just buy a new one to be on the safe side. And use only the appropriate classic car oil 20W50.
Many 2CV6s start leaking again after a complete gasket replacement because the gaskets weren’t the actual problem—it was excessive crankcase pressure caused by a defective oil filler neck or breather. Remember: All 2CV6 engines are at least 40 years old!
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